Sunday, September 10, 2017

Sewing clothes without formulae

From  http://tunteetjatekemisentapa.blogspot.fi/2016/03/vaatteiden-ompelemisesta-ilman-kaavoja.html

I translate this a second time, this time for a cold climate of fourseasons, where eyesight is all the time used a lot and with the sense of atmospheres in it and with lots of rationality and civilized wisdom carried along all the time in everything, with freedom emphatized a lot and people do not keep company to others all the time
The former tsranslation to tropics pays attention to foggy clumsy ways of perceiving things


Sewing clothes without formulae, just your dreams guiding you, an easy advice that brings you all the way to your dreams
I am not so skilled in sewing but in this I seem to have caught the idea.
So, when I have wanted to sew a cloth for myself, I have taken as a starting point an old cloth of similar shape or my old understanding about skirts or the like.
I have thought what style of cloth I want, and chosen the fabric(s) according to it. Then when I have the fabric washed and dried, I have based on it's colours, figures and feel searched for a suitable impression, both ahsentmindedly staring at the fabrics and shortly in front of the mirror searching for right kind of impressions.
So I have found out what the new cloth would be compared to the old one, for example more loose or more according to body forms. From the old cloth I get the shape and measures, to which I have added looseness or more according to body forms and changed the lenghts in ways which I measure with measures that are easy to understand on the level of experience: hand width with fongers spread, pald width, two fingers' width, half a finger's width, or the like, and not in centimeters or inches, and so I have understood better all the time, what I do and why, and have not been able to mix the measures to other measures, and the experienced measures have been a support to my idea of the whole instead of being a mess of inches and needed to be measured again and again.
Then I have cut the pieces while leaving room for the spare part next to the sewing line (for the fabric not to untie) and sewn the basic lines of the cloth. Then I have tried it on in front of the mirror, and tried by moving the fabric find the right form for the details, and when it at some moment has been of a nice atmosphere, I have fixed the position and place of the cloth there and by finger widths or by grasping with fingers or even by sewing with a needle left the style like it is nice, and sewn then so.

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(Here the experienced measures are important because they are on the same language as dreams of what kind of cloth one would like to sew, and so the measure does not distueb one's image in mind of what kind of line and what kind of atmosphere in it one would like to sew, and what would be a nice way for the fabric to hang. So one does not produce clumsy dizzy sewing in the atmosphere of "I dpo not know", but instead the dream guides the practical choices in sewing, in which it is clear to see what one already can and what is there left to learn, and I guess that the new things to learn get solved in the same kind of approach as the old successful ones via this method. So dreaming is here a practical prequisite for conceiving cloth's looks, shape, feel, atmosphere and it's practical features, and so the dream is an advice for sewing like the formulae used to be earlier.
Finding the proportions of measures and shape gets easier via comparing to an old cloth, of which you see what it is like when you wear it and what alteration you should make to that (for example because the differewnt fabric brings a different style) and from it you get the formulae to the pieces of fabric, when you take the variations into account.)

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More about sewing and sewing a skirt, in this blog   http://learntalents.blogspot.com/2018/10/sewing-tips.html
Sewing a winter hat from knitted fabric: number 107. at   http://learntalents.blogspot.com/2017/10/knitting-tips.html



I translated this thinking for Malaysian readers (tropics), but me myself amfrom Finland in northern Europe which is almost arctic climate. The main emphazis here in the translation has been to describe to a beginner how a feeling produces a detailedly seen structure, a in certain ways curved line of the cloth. This is a climate dependent skill, as far as I know.

"In English, anot so good translation:

Learn to sew clothes without formulae, just your dreams guiding you, an easy lesson


I am not skilled in sewing but in this I seem to have caught the idea.
So when I have wanted to sew a cloth for myself, I have taken as a starting point soem other cloth that I have, or then my old skills about skirts or the like.
I have thought what style of cloth I want and chosen the fabric(s) according to my dream. Then when I have washed and dried the fabric, I have searched for right impressions based on it's colours, patterns of the fabric and the feel of the fabric, and also absentmindedly shortly in front of the mirrow searching for the right impressions of what I would like to sew from the fabric.
So I have gotten to know what the new cloth would be compared to old one's form and size, for example more loose or more aclong the body forms. From the old cloth I get the basic form and measured lenghts, to which I add more loose or more along the body forms with measures that I can clearly understand at the levcel of experience: handwidth with fingers spread, palm width, two fingers' width, half of finger's width or the like, and not centimeters or inches, and so I have all the time understood better what I am doing and why and what my dream is both ias the end result and in the forms of the fabric, and I haven't been forced to measure again and again at a mess of centimeters without idea of the form of the fabric I intend to sew.
Then I have cut the fabric while leaving room for the spare part next to the sewing lines, and sewn the basic forms. Then I tried it on in front of the mirrow and by moving the fabric slightly tried to find the exact for for the details, and when it at some moment has been of nice atmosphere I have fixed it there either by fingerwidth measures, grasping with hand oreven by sewing it with aneedle and threadm so I have gotten the style like is nice aand sewn it exactly so.

(Here those experienced mneasures are important because they are on the same language as dreams about what kind of cloth to sew. And so the measure does not disturb one's idea of what kind of spirit the line I sew ought to have and how the fabric would settle nicely. So you don't get only rought lines with "I don't know" atmoshphere, but instead with your dream guiding your practical choises, so that you noptice clearly what you know well already and what is still left to learn, and the new points to solve seem to get solved by same kind of way of thinking as the old succesfull ones, and so you lear new things each time and know the old well. Or so wwa my idea in figuring out this piece of advice. Dreaming is in this a practical prequisite for getting to know the cloth's looks, feeling, atmosphere and practical points, like the formulae earlier was to you.
Getting the sizes right and the shape right gets easier via the old cloth to compare with, from which you can see what it is like when you wear it and what kinds of changes you ought to do to it, for example because the feel of the fabric is different and so the style too, and so you get kind of fformulae for the pieces of fabric when you take the variations into account.)"


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14. March 2019   It is ok to spread, copy and even publish in a morally ok way this text of mine, and also to translate.

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30.4.2019   The song that was here is at http://composingmelodies.blogspot.com/2019/05/sewing-clother-with-your-dreams-guiding.html

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